Как делать маникюр дома

273
2014

Ноготь – это плотные роговые пластинки из мертвых клеток. Единственная живая часть его – это корень. Он получает питание с током крови и за счет размножения его клеток происходит рост ногтя. Правда, растут ногти у разных людей неодинаково.

У пожилых людей — медленно; у людей  физического труда – быстрее, чем у занимающихся умственным трудом. У тех, кто работает с клавиатурой компьютера или играет на пианино, быстрее.

Во время болезни или в состоянии стресса рост ногтя замедляется. Летом ногти растут быстрее, чем зимой; на левой руке – медленнее, чем на правой. В среднем за сутки ноготь увеличивается на 0,1 миллиметра. Весь ноготь обновляется в течение 106-150 дней.

Техника маникюра

• Прежде всего, с ногтей следует удалить старый лак для ногтей (или его остатки). Использовать для этого лучше не ацетон, а жидкости для снятия лака, не содержащие его. Частое применение ацетона высушивает ногти, делает их ломкими.

• Теперь подпилим ногти. Делать это надо обязательно с сухими ногтями. Влажные ногти могут начать расслаиваться. Предотвратят расслоение и движения пилочки  в одну сторону. Некоторые рекомендуют сначала обрезать ногти, но если маникюр делается регулярно, то ногти достаточно подпилить. Подрезание ногтей ножницами также способствует их расслоению.

• Теперь необходимо смягчить кожицу, закрывающую основание ногтя – кутикулу. Сделать это можно двумя способами: специальной жидкостью для удаления кутикулы или с помощью теплой мыльной ванночки для ногтей.

• Размягченную кутикулу удаляют тонкой деревянной палочкой, отодвигая ее к основанию ногтя и снимая. Или срезают ее с помощью специальных ножниц или щипчиков.

• Смыть остатки средства для удаления кутикулы, хорошо вытереть руки и нанести питательный крем. В принципе, здесь можно и остановиться – ухоженные ногти красивы сами по себе. Нанесем на руки крем и сделаем массаж.

Нанесение лака

Если мы наносим на ногти лак, то полезно будет обратить внимание на некоторые замечания.

• Пользоваться лаком постоянно не рекомендуется. Периодически ногтям нужно давать отдых. В теории считается правильным, что ногти ночью должны дышать: снимать лак на ночь и утром наносить новый.

Но вспомним, что это не для ленивых и не для занятых женщин. Нам важно, чтобы ногти выглядели красивыми и ухоженными как можно  дольше, и лак при этом не облупливался. Поэтому, пойдем на компромисс, и будем давать ногтям передышку на выходные (если мы остаемся дома и не должны «выходить в свет»).

• Наносить лак нужно на сухие и обезжиренные ногти. Поэтому снова протрем их ваткой, смоченной в жидкости для снятия лака.

Когда-то мы пользовались только лаком для ногтей, который не относился к долгожителям. Поэтому искали различные способы продления его жизни на ногтях.  Даже такой научный журнал как «Химия и жизнь» уделил внимание этой проблеме и на своих страницах опубликовал совет: наносить лак на слой клея БФ6.

Сегодня профессиональные линии по уходу за ногтями различных косметических фирм включают укрепители для ногтей, основы для лака и прочие препараты, призванные облегчить уход за ногтями.

• Нанести на ногти слой средства для укрепления или основу. Она выполняет несколько функций. Прежде всего — укрепляет ногти и предотвращает расщепление, обламывание и расслоение (в ее состав часто включают кальций, витамины). По многим причинам ногтевая пластинка неровная: механические повреждения, микротрещины, недостаток витаминов.

Основа уплотняет ноготь, делает его более сильным, сглаживает поверхность и лак ложится ровным слоем, дольше сохраняется и не отслаивается. Кроме того, основа защищает ноготь от проникновения в его слои темного пигмента лака, который обычно оставляет следы и вынуждает отказаться от использования лака светлых тонов или бесцветного. Основе необходимо хорошо просохнуть.

• Теперь наносим сам лак. Существует классическая методика нанесения лака тремя штрихами: один в центре, затем по бокам. Поэтому, попробуем нанести лак сначала с середины ногтя до его кончика, а потом вдоль основания ногтя по обеим его сторонам, выравнивая слой лака.

• Чтобы слой лака получился равномерным и не толстым, лак должен быть достаточно жидким и равномерно размешанным. Хорошо закрытый флакон зажать между ладоней и перекатывать его, потирая руки. Лак хорошо размешается и в нем не будут образовываться воздушные пузырьки, что происходит обычно при встряхивании флакона.

Теперь можно флакон открыть, кисточку аккуратно вынуть и обтереть одну ее сторону о край флакона, чтобы снять излишки лака. Красим ноготь. Обмакивать кисточку в лак необходимо перед покраской каждого ногтя. Руку при этом хорошо разложить на столе, подстелив предварительно на него старую газету, на случай если неаккуратно мазнем или прольем лак.

• Дадим лаку время подсохнуть, снова размешаем лак во флаконе и покроем ногти вторым слоем лака. Таким образом, лак будет покрывать ногтевую пластинку ровным слоем и цветом. Больше двух слоев лак наносить не стоит: при большем количестве ногти выглядят неаккуратно, а толстый слой лака быстрее отколупывается.

Высушивание лака

Самое утомительное во всем этом процессе – ждать пока лак окончательно высохнет. Методом проб и ошибок выработаны некоторые правила.

• Итак, лак быстрее сохнет, если руками помахать или имитировать аплодисменты.

• Не сразу, а когда лак слегка подсохнет, можно опустить ногти в холодную воду – это тоже ускоряет процесс затвердения лака.

• Некоторые особо нетерпеливые, сушат лак с помощью фена для волос. Хочу заметить, что у этого способа есть недостатки: от слишком горячего воздуха лак высыхает неровно, мутнеет, на его поверхности могут возникнуть шероховатости и пузырьки.

• Сегодня есть множество препаратов, ускоряющих процесс высыхания лака. Одновременно они покрывают лак защитной пленкой, предохраняющей его от потрескивания, и придают ему дополнительный блеск. Эти защитные жидкости можно использовать и как самостоятельное покрытие для тонких и ломких ногтей, или наносить их на лечебную основу – укрепитель ногтей.

В любом случае, желательно сразу после завершения манипуляций с ногтями избегать каких-либо работ. Ведь мы нанесли на наши ноготки целое сооружение и ему необходимо не просто подсохнуть, а окончательно высохнуть. Тогда наш лак будет держаться долго, и поверхность ногтя будет блестящей, гладкой и без царапин и вмятин.

Скорая помощь для ногтей

По закону «подлости» ноготь ломается перед самым ответственным случаем. Обидно, досадно …но горю можно помочь. Сегодня в магазинах продаются накладные пластмассовые ногти. Как «скорая помощь» — это идеальный вариант. Если же ноготь только треснул или надломился сбоку, то можно провести «спасательные работы»:

Очистить ноготь от лака и нанести основу;

На влажную основу приклеить кусочек бумажной салфетки;

Нанести еще один слой основы;

Дать просохнуть и нанести лак, как обычно.

Иногда случаются неприятности другого рода: ноготь надламывается не в свободной части, а на пальце. Это очень мешает да и больно. В этом случае ноготь можно заклеить пластырем цвета кожи и дождаться, когда ногтевая пластинка отрастет настолько, чтобы можно было ноготь срезать по надлому.

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